Gulf News Archive
Subtle design on traditional outfit has allowed women to step out in style over the decades.
Intricate Details on Abayas is Heigh of FashionDubai: Almost 30 years ago today, Dubai played host to the region's first international fashion fair - Motexha.
More than 80 manufacturers from nine European countries descended upon the city to showcase their latest spring and summer collections.
So it's no surprise the world of abayas was also injected with style, colour and detail.
Emirati mother-of-two, Hama Al Shaibani, is in her 40s, and remembers trying on her first abaya like it was yesterday. "It was about 30 years ago and I was begging my mother to let me wear an abaya," she said. "I wanted to look like my sisters and was desperate to wear one. I know I didn't understand why it was worn and it was only about looking older."
Her mother eventually gave in and tailored one of her old ones to fit Hama. "I was only about 12 years old. But when I was 14 or 15 it became something real. I knew why I was wearing it and it meant something very important to me. Even so, I still spent an awful lot of time trying to iron on Mickey Mouse patches to the sleeves."
To many Westerners an abaya looks like it comes in one colour, one style and one variety only - black, black and black.
But look closer and you will be amazed at the intricate detail, style, fitting and type available to women.
Designed by Calvin Klein, Christian Dior, beading and embroidery by some of the most highly-acclaimed artists in the world, slim fit, wide fit, long fit, wide sleeves, thin sleeves - the choices are endless.
"There is no doubt that style and fashion has affected the way the abaya has evolved but we should also consider that style and individuality is something which is already in us," Hama added.
Today, shops and malls are packed with boutiques doing a brisk trade in funky new abaya designs, ones with bold designs, some that are a little transparent, with shorter hems, and many with elaborate trimmings and even slogans embroidered on the back.
Popular
According to designer Mohammad Al Elbaz there is also a new kid on the block. An abaya which is more like a dress. "This abaya-dress is popular among expats in the region due to the extreme heat during summer. Black is the traditional colour for abayas, but muted shades of brown, blue and green are also becoming very popular.
"Emiratis tend to like their designer abayas by the likes of Versace, Hermes, Yves Saint-Laurent, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Giorgio Armani."
Dubai-based designer Mohammad Bahrani for Eve N Black really pushed the boundaries by holding a fashion show in coordination with Swarovski and it was a hit. His designs were almost Gautier-like with peepholes and lattice-like openings in the back and sides of his black abayas, with the average abaya costing $5,000. Burberry in the UAE is working on producing a 'Gulf Chic' range of branded abayas, head scarves and sandals.
"The explosion of abaya chic with slick fashion shows and hot ad campaigns reflects the desire of Muslim women to define their own identity," Mohammad said.
Abaya styles in the Gulf have evolved much like fashion anywhere in the world. Some twenty years ago, the all-in-one abaya that started at the head made way a decade later for the 'Abaya ala al kitf', abaya that started at the shoulders. Edging closer to the turn of the century, the (almost) figure-hugging French abaya was the most wanted, fastened with buttons at the top. Until about a year ago it was still the abaya chosen by the hip and trendy, but has recently made way for the retro original style abaya of 30 years ago.
"It's funny because I studied in the United States and I have friends who talk about the 60s and 70s. You see the fashion of that day has come back and the same thing has now happened with abayas.
"My two girls are 20 and 21 and the trend today has reverted right back to the kind of abaya I was wearing at 17. The figure-hugging style is out and the baggy-straight ones are all coming back into fashion. It's amazing to see how the fashion just goes around in circles - a bit like Western fashion," Hama said.
While styles are changing, decorations are becoming more elaborate, with fur or feather trimmings, beading and crystal designs, crochet, lace, and leather beautifully incorporated in black raw silk, crepe, velvet, gabardine, chiffon, georgette and cotton.
This year a five-day event called Abaya and Shayla Fashion was a massive hit during Dubai Summer Surprises. Fashion from whatever year has its followers.
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